Category Archives: Cylinder Removal

The last of the heads and cylinders removed

Well we finally got there, we have managed to remove all of the remaining heads and cylinders. Typically the last head to remove No.3 was a tad on the tight side, but with the aid of a couple of bottle jacks it soon gave up.

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Cylinders 6,7,8 and nine came off very easily due to the oil seeping down the sleeves over the last thirty five years or so.

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No 9 actually came off as per the manual, remove base nuts and slide off!

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The last base nut removed

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The last cylinder to come off was No.3 , like the head it was a bit reluctant to come off, but with a bit of pressure from the 30 tonne jack we teased it off.

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And there we have it, phase one completed.

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Time to re hydrate!

The next few jobs are to remove the magnetos and carburetor,  then we will start stripping down the front of the engine.



Heads 6,7,10 and 14 removed, also cylinders 12,13 and 14 removed.

Well steady progress this weekend with a few more heads removed and three more cylinders removed.

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Here we are using the air line adapter to aid a head removal, obviously this can only be used when the piston is at , or near TDC.

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Here we are using our “C” spanner that we  made to slacken of the induction pipe rings, when they have move a quarter of a turn, we can use another “C” spanner with out the extension handle.

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It was time to try out the rotating engine frame! So Pete requested a rotation to starboard of  51 degrees 25 minutes and 43 seconds exactly!

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Not a problem the frame works a treat!

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With the engine tilted over we can have a good peak at the carburetor, it is

nice and clean inside and all moves freely.

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Shelve’s are filling up with more and more parts.


Heads 5, 11,12 and 13 removed also cylinder No.5 removed

This weekend we had a good couple of days working on the 264, we managed to                        remove No. 5 , No.11 ,No.12 and No.13 cylinder heads.

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No.12 Cylinder head proved to be quite tough to remove , we pulled it off until flush with the head studs,

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then made a new beam so we could push the head off from the main engine casing.

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Cylinders No.s 5 and 11 came straight off with a slide hammer, these cylinders had a lot more oil present.

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Here you can see the supercharge inside the rear casing, it looks in very good condition.

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Also we had a look inside the magnetos , they are absolutely in perfect condition.

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We then pulled off No.5 Cylinder, even though it looks bad, it came of with little effort, just used the jack once to brake the hold on the rings then used the 3/4″ UNF threaded rod to tease it off.

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Cylinders 11,12 and 13 ready to be removed.

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Only a few more to go!

No4 Cylinder Removal

Base Nut

The first problem to over come to remove cylinder, is the 40 point spline nuts used by Bristol to secure the cylinder, we tried for many hours to track down a base nut spanners , so in the end we decided to make one.

First remove one of the nuts using vice grips , then measure the size of the spline and drill some plate to suit, heat up to red hot

Base Nut Spanner 2

Then use the nut as a broach and press into the plate,

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Cut out and weld to an old 3/8″ extension

Base Nut Spanner 5

Next heat up to cherry red and submerge into carbon , in our case some crushed up BBQ bricks! and allow to cool to case harden.

Base Nut Spanner 9

Job done works a treat.

Next job was to make a puller plate to attach to the cylinder and a plate that fits down the bore so we can push on the piston evenly.

cylinder 1cylinder 2

A bit more milling work for Pete!

cylinder 7


First we tried 15 tonnes to remove the cylinder.

cylinder 4


No movement, so we stepped up to 30 tonnes!

cylinder 5

That did the trick, as soon as it started to move we could use threaded rod and a windy gun to pull off the cylinder.

cylinder 6


That’s one down , thirteen to go!